True Trac 8' Combo Kit

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Price: $240.99    

Product Feature

• Track saw system that work with any saw.
• Universal Adapter Plate adapts any circular saw to work with the True Trac Rails.
• Portable
• 105" capacity can be extended with additional track
• Router attachment available

Product Description

This is not a straight edge guide, but a rail system that allows you to mount any circular saw. Makes quick work of sheet goods.

True Trac 8' Combo Kit Review

Bought one of these a few years ago at a woodworking show. I had been using a shop made alternative. TrueTrac solved the problem I had with that, which is that either you have to apply considerable pressure toward the fence of the jig, which can cause movement, or the saw can tend to wander off the other side of the jig. I got by for a few years without buying a table saw for ripping by using a TrueTrac.

Now that I have a table saw, it is still important to get a perfectly true edge to run against the fence for precision ripping. Using the TrueTrac with the optional clamps, I can make one edge of the board absolutely perfect, far better than trying to true it up using a planer. Then run that edge against the fence of the table saw with a good blade, and I'm good to go - ready for glue up or whatever.

I don't use the little gadget that is supposed to prevent tear-out on the "waste" side for two reasons. 1. On my Ridgid saw, it is extremely difficult or impossible to install correctly due to the waffle pattern on top of the magnesium base. 2. It would get in the way of freehand use of the saw, which is unacceptable for me. But I have really good results on the "keeper" piece and, if I need to use the cutoff piece (frequently the case with plywood) I just put some masking tape down first to minimize tearout, and use a plywood blade.

A few tips when using the TrueTrac: 1. When the workpiece is nearly the same length as the track, you must put the front of the saw in the track, and carefully lower the back of the saw into the end of the workpiece. When doing this the first couple of times, I failed to hold the lever to move the saw's guard up, and the guard snagged which caused me to cut into the plastic edge slightly. They sell replacement edges, but they are really proud of them (about $25 for a pair). 2. When ending the cut, either follow through and go all the way off the workpiece, or stop until the blade quits turning before lifting the saw out. This will prevent cutting into the precious rubber strip on the other end. Mine are getting enough little nicks that I finally ordered a replacement set. When the strips are intact, you line up the strips on the measuring marks you made on the workpiece, and it WILL cut in exactly that spot. 3. If you are cutting smaller strips, so that the "waste" piece is actually the keeper, don't forget to allow 1/8" or so extra to allow for the saw kerf.

Making tapered pieces is so much easier with the TrueTrac than rigging up a sled on the table saw. Just mark where you want to cut and it is quick and safe. Only issue is that if you don't have enough wood under the track, it is hard to balance unless you put more wood of the same thickness under the other side, which I'm always doing. If one or the other is slightly warped, you need their little clamps (which they are also extremely proud of...). I'm always using the clamps just because I often cut plywood that is not perfectly flat. You can only clamp material that is about 3/4" thick or so; much thinner and the clamp won't reach (I stick a shim between the clamp and the workpiece in this case). Thick stock like a 2X4 can be clamped if you take the rubber foot piece completely off and stick a rag between the remaining part of the clamp and the workpiece. I keep wishing somebody would make self adjusting clamps that are small enough to work with this system.

Anyway, after using both the TrueTrac and the homemade systems, I'm sold on the former because it is rock solid and almost foolproof. At least moron-resistant.

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