Sunday, September 30, 2012

Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel

Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel

Shock Sale Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel very cheapYou looking to find the "Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel" Good news! You can purchase Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel with secure price and compare to view update price on this product. And deals on this product is available only for limited time.

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Product Feature

  • 33"L x 22"W
  • Constructed of 18-gauge stainless steel
  • Self-rimming or undercounter
  • Large single basin

Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel Review

We replaced a 25 year old double bowl sink with this unit and it was pretty much a drop in. I had to enlarge the old opening only a quarter or a half inch to get this sink in place. We find a large single sink to be much more utilitarian for handling large pots, bowls, cookie sheets, etc. and this fills the bill. I was concerned that the sink, being metal and as large as it is, would have a "hollow" or "booming" sound but that is not the case. There are sound deadening strips adhered to the outside vertical surfaces (and out of sight of course) that take care of the tinniness. Also, the sink comes with a removable metal rack about a half inch high that covers the entire bottom of the sink. It keeps whatever is placed in the sink off the bottom. At first, I thought that this would be an annoyance in cleaning food, etc out of the sink but we learned that using the sprayer, the sink can be flushed out fairly quickly. We chose a sink faucet set that has a sprayer separate from the spout: Moen 7790 and like it as much as the sink.

We get lots of compliments on the sink like and would buy it again.

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from Kohler K-3821-3-NA Vault Large Single Kitchen Sink with Three-Hole Faucet Drilling, Stainless Steel ...

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Saturday, September 29, 2012

Q-See QS408-803-5 Precision Recording Security System with 8 Indoor/Outdoor CCD Cameras and Pre-Installed 500GB Hard Drive

Q-See QS408-803-5 Precision Recording Security System with 8 Indoor/Outdoor CCD Cameras and Pre-Installed 500GB Hard Drive

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Product Feature

  • Advanced H.264 Video Compression
  • CIF Real-Time Recording (30FPS per channel x 8 cameras = 240FPS Total) / D1 Recording Option (7.5FPS per channel x 8 cameras = 60FPS Total)
  • Stream Live Video Directly to a remote PC, iPhone, iPad, Android, or other
  • Backup important video from the DVR to a PC or Flash Drive
  • Pre-Installed 500GB Hard Drive;DVR Supports up to 8 Security Cameras
  • Trigger Email Alerts on Motion Detection Events. Supported Smartphone Running Windows Mobile Pro or Symbian on 3G Networks.

Product Description

Q-SEE 8CH H.264 DVR W/500GB HD CIF real-time rec 8 CCD color cam

Q-See QS408-803-5 Precision Recording Security System with 8 Indoor/Outdoor CCD Cameras and Pre-Installed 500GB Hard Drive Review

I bought my first q-see DVR (digital video recorder) about 3 years ago right here on amazon.com. It was known as a "PENTAPLEX" which meant you could do 5 things at the same time - record live video from multiple channels, backup the hard disk, view video remotely over the internet, view video locally on a TV set, and search through recordings to find out who took your recycle bin full of cans. Pentaplex and Triplex are names given as to how many activities the unit can do simultaneously.

That unit is still running after driving the neighborhood drug dealers out of their rent free abandoned home (and having them arrested numerous times - it povided key evidence of license plate numbers, video of drug deals going down, spousal abuse -- you name it the police department got it. For that matter the PD could log in over the internet to check up on who was there if they wanted to)

I live on a 2 block long road full of modern quiet 4500 sq ft homes, and across from me was a 60 year old 931 sq ft original house that had become the neighborhood drug hangout - a place to go smoke a bowl, ride your motorcycle through the front door of the house and out the back, to hook up with the homies, etc. It definitely did not fit in - the crime rate rose - the house adjacent to the drug house was robbed 5 times in 3 months. Both me and my next door neighbor installed MONITORED alarms and we formed our own neighborhood watch. His was a .357 and mine was a 9mm.

The Q-see was instrumental in getting rid of the trash. It provided numerous photographic enlargements of license plates, video evidence used in court to convict the individual squatting there, and more 30 second drive by drug deals than I could count, happening every 3-5 minutes right in front of my house.

I installed 8 cameras covering every angle possible, 2 PTZ (pan-tilt-zoom - like the casino's use) domes that I could controll remotely over the internet to see what is going on if I was not home, and motion detectors, microphones - all of this was OVERT meaning it was blatant that you were on camera if you came nearby - I had to put up a sign because legally I could not record voice without notifying the people (video is OK) due to wiretapping laws that are outdated, so I put my sign on the 60 year old tree in front of my house warning people they were under video and audio surveilance. In 3 months we had the dealers out, the rightful owners back, they had to demolish the house because it was so badly damaged, and then they built a brand new 4500 sq ft home in keeping with the neighborhood.

About Q-see

Q-see brings the $12,000 DVR that the casinos use to catch card cheats down to the price a homeowner can afford. I recommend any home first install a MONITORED alarm system and make it BLATANT that one is in place (big bell box outside in a conspicuous place) - this will rid yourself of 90% of the crime because criminals know where to look for these and when they find them, they walk on to your neighbor's house to rob instead. After an alarm comes video evidence of WHO did WHAT and WHEN with PROOF. Q-see gives you this.

What do all the numbers mean? What is H.264?

When dealing with video (which is inherently analog) and you go to digitize it, you would normally find yourself swamped in data, because video is 30 pictures per second, each 740x480, full color (or b&W at night with IR vision cameras). Imagine a 1.3 megapixel camera taking 30 pictures per second - your memory card would be full in a couple minutes at the most.

The broadcast industry faced the same problem when the FCC mandated that they "go digital" recently - there was not enough room on a channel to put raw high definition television. So they did what we do on our PCs when we have a bunch of files - they compressed them. This process is known as coding and decoding and is abbreviated CODEC for those of us who dont like to type alot. MANY codecs exist - divx, h.264, h.263, mjpeg, etc. H.264 however crams the best quality picture into the smallest amount of disk space. It's used by the satellite providers to give you more channels than they could without it. Best of all, it's free. No royalties to pay.

You're going to hear alot about frames per second. 1 video channel is 30 frames per second. That's for one camera. If you have 8 cameras, then it 8 times 30 or 240 frames per second that your 8 camera DVR must record (if you want smooth free flowing video like you are accustomed to on TV) - now you don't need free flowing video - you can cut from 30 to 15 frames per second and still get reasonably smooth video. The point is that any DVR has a limit as to how many FPS (Frames per Second) it can record. You get to decide which cameras get the best picture, and which ones only take 2 pictures per second (as an example) if you do not have 240 frames per second.

The second number to throw at you is resolution. VGA is 640x480 and is about VHS quality. HD is 1920x1080 and will blow your mind after being accustomed to VGA quality video (blu ray is done in HD as an example) In the world of surveilance video - the more pixels you choose to record, the less time you can record on a disk. So they invented QVGA - which stands for quarter vga - they divide a VGA screen into 1/4ths and you are left with 320x240. That's cell phone size video - and when you see it blown up onto a big screen tv set it looks pretty bad. Another standard is CIF which is 352x288 pixels - better than qvga, but not as good as VGA (about VHS or the old video standard).

What I like about this product is you can configure how much quality you assign from the product's ability to record to each camera. That way the cameras for areas where people are standing (front door for example) take 3 frames per second of CIF or VGA quality video. The cameras that cover high speeed motion - the street with cars zooming by or the sidewalk with bicycles, they can record at 30 frames per second for smooth video. Again - for 8 channels you need 240 frames per second to record all 8 channels at full framerate (30 FPS).

The good news!

The 408 from q-see supports 240 frames per second, so every camera can have full motion video. Cameras 1 and 2 are special though, as they are sampled at a higher resolution called D1 or 702x408 pixels (sure beats CIF) while cameras 3-8 are recorded at CIF resolution. I've been getting by on JUST CIF for 3 years, so this is a step up!

Can I Install it? Is it legal?

I am not an attorney, so this is not legal advice, but from what I found on the net, you can record video of your property without giving notice. However, this product can also record audio. To do that you must put up a sign in a conspicuous place that tells passers by that video and audio surveilance is in use - then you are compliant with all the laws.

Can you install it - probably if you can wire an 8 track player into your 1977 buick. Here's what you need to know.

1 - everything you will need is on amazon.
2 - I've reviewed most of it so read my reviews
3 - my email is in my profile so if you get stuck email me
4 - every camera needs 2 things - a video connection and 12 volts to run the camera. x 8 cameras and you will want a 12 volt power panel like the one I reveiwed here: Q-See QS1018 12 Volt 12 AMP Power Distribution Panel Connects 18 Cameras
5 - should you decide to record audio, you will need 1 - a microphone for each channel (8 of them) 2 - a mic to line level amplifier (about $20) 3 - some microphone cable. This gets into recording gear - the sennheiser C2 is a good deal since you get 2 mics in a set, 4 sets would get you 8 mics, and they are very sensitive - able to hear a whisper at 100 feet. But they need preamps. ART Tube MP Microphone Preamp Here's just one example - it will only handle one microphone, and costs more than the mic, so you might look around for 8 channel preamps beause the microphone needs 48V to run itself, and it gives you a very low level output on a XLR connector (3pin pro stuff) - and you need to amplify that .007 volt signal to about .700 volts (100x or 20dB for those who speak dB) to run the line level inputs of the 408. Of course you could opt to just have 2 microphones.
6 - what's this I hear about night vision - it it that expensive military stuff? No. How night vision works is when the sun goes down a sensor tells the camera to turn on a whole bunch of IR LEDs (infrared light emitting diodes) - these look to have a dull red glow to you, but 36 of them shining into your front yard is like a 1000W light turned on. Best part is the subject walking through can't tell - the infrared spectrum is beyond what us humans can see - so it still looks dark, except on your camera, where although its black and white, it is fully detailed with facial recognition possible.
7 - How about motion detection - can these replace those alarm motion sensors. The answer is: it depends. Inside, I'd say yes, but outside, I'd say no. The reason is that IR is not visable to HUMANS, but BUGS love the stuff, especially spiders who spin webs over your camera lenses where it's nice and bright at night. And that spider will trigger any motion detector - even if you kill off all the spiders, the number of flying insects that love IR light is amazing. Every night I capture about 50-80 bugs flying through a motion capture zone.
8 - what is a motion capture zone? Your camera brings back a big area - as much as the lens lets it see - but you may not want to capture the entire area, just a sub part of it, such as your front walkway without getting the sidewalk. You can exclude the sidewalk and the street but if someone or their dog comes into your front yard, you trigger the motion capture event, and it records until the motion stops. This saves tons of storage by not having to store video of your front yard all night long. It also gives you an idea of how long something happened - a 50Kbyte file is probably a bug - while a 1 megabyte file is probably a person. In between are cars, people walking by, dogs, cats, etc.
9 - how can I get rid of all those extra recordings and only get people. Simple - you use a tool called a PIR (passive Infra Red) detector - it looks for the body's heat - they are about $40 at security stores, and guess what - they run off 12V and give back a signal when someone is walking through their protection zone (where you point them). That signal that someone is DEFINITELY there can also be used to start the recording (there is a terminal block on the right lower rear panel where you hook up one sensor for each camera input - if someone crosses the sensor, they also start the recorder - but bugs, spiders, and all the tiny things won't set off the sensors. Now you really cut down your night's recordings. Indoors its not a problem unless you have a bug infestation in your house. Get a bug zapper.

10 - OK - I have all this stuff - how long will it record. On my 16 channel system I can record for 17 days on a 1 TB disk drive. One of the things I like about q-see is they let you use your own disk drive - say you just upgraded the 1TB disk that came in last years computer to a 2 TB disk and now its laying around, right? q-see lets you open the case and change out their 500 gb sata drive for your 1000 gb sata drive and you just gave yourself twice as much storage.

11 - do I need to use all 8 cameras. Absolutely not. You can use channels 1 and 2 which are the high quality channels only and add cameras later as problems develop - or you can do what I did - you have a dual system - overt cameras that people can see and avoid, and covert cameras that catch them when they do. It's a great way to divide and conquer.

Summed up, you will be running alot of coax cable (at least 8 pieces for a full system) - the cameras come with skinny coax, but I prefer rg-59 as a minimum and rg-6 for long runs. Q-see also makes "siamese" cable - its coax with 2 power wires along with it - the advantage is from one reel you can run power and video without needing 2 separate spools of cable.

Earlier I mentioned PTZ domes - these are loads of fun if you get a camera with a 400x zoom lens. From my house I can zoom in on the stop sign at the end of the road and see the bolts that hold the sign on the pole! You get an IR remote with the system much like your TV set, and there is an output for your TV set (composite video - 740x480 or so resolution). There is also a higher resolution output for multiple images like at the quickiemart - it uses VGA monitors you have laying around when you went to hdmi or dvi for your video card. That's one of the things I like about q-see - I can recycle alot of my computer equipment into surveilance gear. I even went so far as to get a 1 in 4 out VGA distribution amplifier so I could see the q-see signal at many screens in my house. My older unit has relay outputs which I wired to buzzers to tell me when someone was walking up to my door - I usually beat them to the door with the advance notice. you can customize your system based on your skill as an electrician and programmer in software. For indoor cameras, it intergrates nicely with your alarm system - program your alarm to close a relay when a door or window is violated (opened) and have a camera (inexpensive 30 dollar type) pointed at that door inside - wire the relay from your house alarm to the alarm trigger for the camera associated with the corresponding door and you've just eliminated the need for the motion sensor (they are better outside at night)

In summary, q-see has brought the ability to record security video to the consumer price range. I do not recommend the shopping big-store specials that come with 8 cameras because the 8 cameras they come with are usually the cheap indoor variety, and often you want an outdoor camera instead.

Q-see has been around for a long time and instroduced new features, like the ability to send video to your cellphone (in this model) Again - do you want a call about every moth at night? If not - you need to use quality motion sensors to trigger the system. With the internet connection you can view your 2nd house or cabin remotely over the net to check in on things. (again - start with a good alarm system and at least get a permit from the city - ours are shiny reflective like streetsigns and just a little flashlight warns the would be burglar that the PD will be there in 2 minutes if they break into this home)

Good luck with your install. It is a diy project, but plan a couple of weekends to fine tune the system. When done, you can have a great surveilance coverage of your property.

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "Q-See QS408-803-5 Precision Recording Security System with 8 Indoor/Outdoor CCD Cameras and Pre-Installed 500GB Hard Drive" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from Q-See QS408-803-5 Precision Recording Security System with 8 Indoor/Outdoor CCD Cameras and Pre-Installed 500GB Hard Drive ...

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Friday, September 28, 2012

Lite Source C41182 Permala Table Lamp, Dark Bronze with Tiffany Shade

Lite Source C41182 Permala Table Lamp, Dark Bronze with Tiffany Shade

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Product Feature

  • Lite Source Table Lamp with Dark Bronze body from the Permala Collection
  • Tiffany Shade
  • Shade dimensions: 3-Inch top by 3-Inch bottom by 11-Inch height
  • Lamp dimensions: 24.75-Inch height by 5-Inch width
  • Requires 1 x 60 Watt E12-socket B-type bulb (not included)

Product Description

lite source remains true to its commitment to provide you the largest selection of fashion forward lighting that is always in style.

Lite Source C41182 Permala Table Lamp, Dark Bronze with Tiffany Shade Review

This Tiffany-like lamp gets only four stars because at no place in the descripton did it say that the shade was not really glass--it LOOKS like glass. The size is good, it has two sockets that will take fluorescent bulbs, and the light is pretty through the shade. However, keep in mind that the shade is resin and plastic, not metal and glass like implied by the term Tiffany-style. Since I bought it through Amazon Warehouse, it was a terrific value.

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "Lite Source C41182 Permala Table Lamp, Dark Bronze with Tiffany Shade" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from Lite Source C41182 Permala Table Lamp, Dark Bronze with Tiffany Shade ...

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Thursday, September 27, 2012

50 Sqft Cable Set, Electric Radiant Floor Heat Heating System with Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat

50 Sqft Cable Set, Electric Radiant Floor Heat Heating System with Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat

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Price: $269.00    Updated Price for 50 Sqft Cable Set, Electric Radiant Floor Heat Heating System with Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat now
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Product Feature

  • 50 Square Foot Under Tile Heating "Cable Set" (spool of wire), 120 Volts
  • Highest Quality Heating Cable, Twisted Pair for Zero EMF, Single Cold Lead, Very Thin, 1/8" thk
  • Wire is laid out 3" apart acroos the area to heat. Allows easy heating of odd shapes
  • Inculdes Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat with Floor Sensor Wire
  • Includes Aluminum tape to secure wire to floor.

Product Description

Electric Floor Warming System used to heat tile flooring. The system is designed to heat the designated square footage when installed in mortar under tile or masonry flooring. The heating cable is simply layed out on the floor in the area you want to heat prior to tile installation. The heating element is less than 1/8" thick, so the rise in flooring height is negligible. This system is BRAND NEW and manufactured by Warming Systems Inc. which offers a 15-year warranty on its product. The wire is designed to be spaced 3" apart. With any floor heating system, if the wire is spaced more than 3" apart, you will feel cold "streaks" on the tile surface. Beware of heating systems that tell you to space the wire over 3".

50 Sqft Cable Set, Electric Radiant Floor Heat Heating System with Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat Review

I have only installed this product, the tile has not been laid and we're not moving in for another month.

BLUF: Spend the extra $60 and get a mat-based set unless it absolutely will not work.

Planning:

Take the time to layout the best way to meet your room dimensions and needs. Take into account where you will actually be standing/walking. You don't typically put your foot within 4" of a wall unless the room is super narrow, but you might stand right up to the edge of a tub/shower while turning on the water. Keep it 6" away from the toilet to prevent the wax ring from melting (some people debate this point, I figure its not worth the risk for no reward)

You can actually heat the room with several different approach, if you have a massive Roman Bath you might want to focus the heat on certain areas (main path/vanities/toilet/makeup bench) or do what I did and just heat it all.

Both the cable and mat will require some thought while laying out. Breakup the room into areas that will be heated and think of where the cable will "enter" and "exit" the current area being heated. This is critical with the cable set because if your last run is going in the wrong direction you'll be spending a lot of time shifting runs.

Thermostat Installation:

I won't get into where to locate the wall Thermostat or how to get electricity to it. Make sure to put this on a GFCI protected circuit (i went dedicated to the main panel). Pull a permit and follow code or hire an electrician.

The struggle I had was getting the hole for the cable and floor sensor as close to the floor as possible since in most modern construction there is a 2x4 bottom plate located down there. I had access to the backside so I bore down with a 3/4" spade bit to the subfloor then came in sideways with a 3/8" bit from the drywall side. I used a fishtape to help them make the bend since the sensor wire is so thin. If you don't have access to the backside I guess my next option would be to drill a hole 2" off the floor and find a way to mount the baseboard so it doesn't pinch the wires (shimmed out or route/chisel a recess in the back)

The thermostat itself was easy to connect. 4 wires on the thermostat itself, 2 black and 2 whites. One goes to your Line (house wiring), the other to the Load (Cable, also connects to ground). You also need to pull the floor sensor to connect in the front of the unit. It is very thin wire and they give you a jewelers style screwdriver to secure. Pay the extra $15 and get a second floor sensor in case your first one were ever to fail.

Cable Installation:

If you typically skip directions here's the simple jest of it, each wire will heat 1 1/2" on each side, so space your wires 3" apart and 1 1/2" away from wherever you want heated. Beyond that will not be heated. Unroll it with as little tangles as possible (yeah right) and tape it to the floor. Simple as that. I ripped the tape off in 1-2" sections to hold it to the floor. Once applied the tape cannot be reused (once you remove the tape it lost all grip).

I unrolled the entire reel as best as I could and put the coil in the tub while I laid the wire so it wouldn't get tangled at my feet. The last 10 feet were very springy so I'm glad I had some extra tape to hold it down.

Mark your floor about before each bend in 3" increments (I just used a pencil). My method was to mark on alternating sides of the tape measure which helped indicate which direction the wire was going which helped me verify my layout.

Their picture shows taping the tip of each bend, I chose to tape each side prior to the bend, this helped maintain spacing and provided more support. I went along securing each end but skipped reinforcing the middle of each section. This way if I needed to make an adjustment I wouldn't be doing as much rework (or wasting more tape). Plus your eye will pickup spacing discrepencies much better against a large pattern than focusing only on one or two rows.

Overall it took less than 90 minutes to clean the room, mark everything out (my engineers mind laid out 4 different layouts before it was satisfied), and install all the cable.

Small rework is easy, pull up a couple pieces of tape which will no longer adhere to the floor, move what you need to move, and add new tape. Significant rework is a major PITA. For some stupid reason I thought I had bought the 60 sqft cable and was too aggressive on my original rows so I didn't have enough to heat the watercloset. I could have loosened my spacing to gain another 5sqft to heat the area in front of the toilet but after trying to adjust the first 3 rows I figured it wasn't worth all the work and the risk of running out of tape (since they were tiling first thing the next morning and the hardware stores were already closed).

This is where I realized using mats would have been such a better idea. I could have laid them out and realized my mistake before securing them to the floor. You can't do that with cable because it won't hold its shape unless secured to the floor.

In Use:

Weren't you reading?! I'm not living in the house yet and won't write a review until I've used it for a bit. Check back in the Spring.

Rating: 5/5

I rate a product based on what it is supposed to be, in this case the Cable Set provides all the flexibility needed to fit any unique room with odd shapes. Installation was easy for both the electrical and the cable mat set. I give it 5/5 stars for those aspects. The thermostat has its own reviews so go read those reviews there.

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "50 Sqft Cable Set, Electric Radiant Floor Heat Heating System with Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from 50 Sqft Cable Set, Electric Radiant Floor Heat Heating System with Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat ...

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